- Is a well insulated job that costs more initally better than a less insulated house (or addition or basement finish) that costs the client more each month?
- Is it better to spend a little more for low or no-VOC paints and finishes or buy cheaper paints and then wonder why everyone is coughing and hacking. That "new home smell" isn't really good for us. This is also true for carpets (Naturals vs Synthetics), pads, wood products, and furniture/cabinets that have chipboard components.
- Is it better to protect the house structure under the siding or trust that horizontal rain or snow won't get in and cause problems like dry rot and mold. Caulk alone won't protect your investment. I've repaired and replaced too many exterior doors/windows and their underlying structures to know that isn't true.
- Is an investment in a ventilation system that exchanges inside air/outside fresh air at the proper rate too much to spend?
- Are Energy Star appliances worth the extra cost?
- Are water saving shower heads, faucets and toilets really needed here in N. Michigan where we have all these lakes and rivers?
- Is a quiet bath fan, that the client will use, a must-have?
- Is bamboo flooring greener than local sustainably-harvested maple?
- Is money better spent on quality windows or should the client get granite?
Monday, December 17, 2007
Today, after gathering bids from sub-contractors, it was time to fine-tune my total bid for the aforementioned 3 phase project. While the uninitiated may feel this is when the builder really starts envisioning the huge profits and that 2nd home in Tahiti, I really find the opposite to be true. This is the time for second guessing. Is my pricing spot on or is it high (or is it too low). With the state of the economy in Michigan and elsewhere, competition is fierce and ruthless. The additional pressure for the Green Builder on pricing jobs is the perception that Green inevitably is more expensive. It really comes down to choices and the decisions that the client makes.
Friday, December 14, 2007
I just had a proposal accepted for a deck that will have a TREX deck (and Bench) surface. This deck will be 14' x16' with chamfered corners so that steps come off one of these and a bench can wrap around on three sides. Now, I've just got to get the weather to cooperate. I've worked with TREX before and haven't had any problems with it. I did a BIG deck, 1200 sq. feet, a couple of years ago that had Crosstimbers composite decking and that was a real nightmare. This material is very temperature sensitive so it expands/contracts alot and because it is fastened with clips that fit in a grooves on the side it also suffers from "deck-creep". We fastened all ends with surface screws and spaced it appropriately for the installed temperature and it still was a problem. The deck has a glass rail and all the corners were pulled/pushed apart. Elk Corp., who makes the product, was really great about diagnosing the problem. They sent one of their Tech guys to Northern Michigan and had me tweak a few things and we fixed it.
Thursday, December 13, 2007
I'm currently working with homeowners on a 3-phase project.
- Finish off basement into family room with 3/4 bath.
- Finish existing attached garage to expand small dining room and living room. It will also have a mudroom and bring the laundry group up to the 1st floor.
- Bump-out a new garage in such a way to create a L-shaped ranch.
The greening of this project will encompass:
- Build up floor in basement with DriCore floor panels to get flooring (and feet) off of cold and (in summer), damp cement.
- Insulating block walls with 1" white foamboard (r-3.6) on top and sides of wall. This will seal, insulate and allow any moisture to dry to the inside. All joints to be caulked.
- 2 x 4 wall on 2' centers on treated plate .
- Insulate stud space with blown-in cellulose. (r-
- This insulating of the basement should be done anyway-This just gives the homeowner a great excuse.
- Paperless drywall in 3/4 bath.
- No-VOC paint, stain and finish.
- Egress window to provide more natural light and escapability.
- Utilizing a space that has a footprint, walls and roof is a great way to minimize the construction process. We don't need to excavate the lot for comparable space, no framing or roofing materials. We'll build the floor up level with house with Trusjoists and 3/4" OSB. Minimal interior partitions will be needed. We will need to provide for attic ventilation with soffit/ridge vent. We will, of course, be minimizing waste as well.
- No-VOC paints, stains and finish.
- Insulate with blown-in cellulose, walls will have 3.5", ceilings 12-16"